~ Labrador Retriever ~

Why having dog insurance is important

2008-01-16T21:11:00.001-08:00

To have a proper insurance for the dog is a very important issue for every new dog owner.
While most dog owners firstly think about health insurance plans, good public liability insurance, covering every kind of accident or injury is much more important. Even the smallest dog may cause a car accident by running on a road, make somebody fall and break his leg, damage someone else’s property, or bite the postman to defend his home.

Make sure the maximum cover is high enough to pay even for a heavy car accident and long term rehab. Most insurance plans have a very low coverage that is no help at all. There is many insurance companies specialized on pet insurances, so take your time to compare their plans and packages.

No matter where you live and what your neighbourhood looks like, there is always a remaining risk.

Of course then there is the possible cost of treating your dog in case of an illness. While some dogs will only see the vet for vaccination and check-up, others may suffer a chronic illness leading to repeated visits to a veterinary hospital. One in three pets need veterinary treatment each year, so pet insurance is an important consideration. If you plan to breed, consider covering that cost also. There are of course many kinds of insurances and plans to cover those costs. Some cover just treatment and medication, others even x-rays, surgeries or hospitalization. Many plans may just pay for a certain percentage of the cost, so ask for all quotes available.

If you own any other dogs or pets, look for discount packages. Ask your local kennel or breeders club if they have any cooperation or special deals for members. If you already have personal lines insurance, ask if they also cover your pet, how to add your pet if possible and for special deals on that matter.

Training your dog to Sit!

2008-01-16T21:07:00.000-08:00

The command Sit! would be one of the first and easiest you want your dog to learn and memorize.

Whenever a dog hears his feeding dish being handled, or his leash being taken from its place it knows what’s going to happen. So the Puppy is very early able to understand the connection food - cup, or walk – leash and anticipate the outcome. This is exactly what we are going to take advantage of.

The moment the Puppy sits down by himself we say “sit”. Repeatingly using the sit! command whenever the Puppy sits down will make your dog connect action and command. As with the cup and leash example the dog will sit down although the command is happening before the action taking place. Of course the Puppy will only sit down if not “disturbed” by something of major importance.

You may start to back your command after a few days of practice, by gently pushing your dog’s croup down with one hand and keeping his head up with the other. In doing so, we repeat the command >>sit<<, >>sit<< with a comforting voice. Should the dog sit for about 5 seconds, this should be followed by exuberant praise and visible exaltation.
Your body language and voice must be a clear signal to your dog, that it has just achieved something world-shaking.

Do not start to train any other commands in that period, and don’t exercise the sit! command 5 times in a row! Let some time go by and don’t forget the celebration whenever it works out.
Slowly increase the complicacy: Both of you are laying on the floor playing and out of the sky there comes the command.

Make sure to be consequent! Never repeat your command! Enforce the execution right after the first command!
Support your verbal command with a precise hand signal. As soon as this works, try just calling the dog by its name and the use of the hand signal only the moment the dog is looking at you.

The next steps are to train the sit! command at close range. Use a light leash starting from about 1-2 yards and keep increasing the distance. At this point I suggest introducing your dog to a new kind of signal, the dog whistle, also known as silent whistle. There might come situations in your dog’s life, where your verbal commands might not be heard because of excessive noise or simply the distance. The dog whistle is the perfect tool in those situations as it has a long distance effect.

Choose a unique signal for this command and start using it in exchange to your verbal command. Make sure that this signal is clearly distinguishable for your dog from all other signals you plan to use for further commands.

taken from http://trainyourdog.net/puppy-training/train-dog-sit/#more-24

Dog Shaking

2008-01-16T20:59:00.000-08:00

Yellow Labrador Puppies

2008-01-16T20:56:00.000-08:00

Sick Pet. Tough Economy. What to do?

2008-01-16T20:48:00.000-08:00

From a pet owner's perspective, each pet deserves to be treated, whether the funds are there or not. Some people even question if a vet 'cares' about their pet when they won't see the pet and provide treatment for free or at an extremely reduced cost.

From a veterinarian's perspective, yes, all animals deserve to be cared for, suffering reduced or eliminated, and animals treated and cured of their illnesses or conditions whenever possible. Unfortunately, there are real costs involved in veterinary medicine -- medical supplies, the necessary medications, and diagnostic tests are not inexpensive, even to veterinarians. And things like hospital building rent/mortgage, employee costs - technicians, staff, and yes, even the veterinarian's salary and insurance all need to be paid.

It should be noted that delaying care can add to the expenses considerably. Trying to diagnose and treat a pet at home may indeed cause the situation to be worse -- your pet's illness becomes more serious, necessitating additional care, medications, tests, etc.

Veterinary Pet Insurance
Even though this option has been available for approximately 20 years, it hasn't been available everywhere, hasn't always been cost effective for some pets/pet owners, and is not the answer for something immediate, like an emergency situation. However, this option is being used more commonly by pet owners today. Planning ahead is the key. The best bet is to sign up early -- at the healthy puppy or kitten stage if possible, and select a plan that best fits your needs. Pet insurance can definitely help for the unplanned pet emergency. Click here for more information about pet insurance plans.

Maintain a "pet emergency" credit card to be used only for unforeseen pet medical needs
For those where credit is an issue, this isn't a viable option, but many people do have a credit card that is used only for pet emergencies. This allows the client to pay the veterinary bill in full, and pay on the credit card as able.

Payment plans offered through your veterinarian
I have found that many people don't even bother to call the veterinarian when money is an issue -- assuming the worst, that the vet will refuse the patient outright. This could indeed be the case, but phone several clinics if need be! You may be surprised. Many vets do offer some sort of payment plan on a case-by-case basis. It won't hurt to ask. Some clients have even traded services or labor to pay off veterinary bills. This is not the norm, and can't be done for every client in need of course, but communicating with your veterinarian honestly about your situation will allow for a quicker resolution and hopefully treatment for your pet.

Check with your local Humane Society or shelter
Your local animal aid organizations may be able to offer assistance if they have a veterinarian on call or on staff, or they may have a list of veterinarians who offer low-cost or subsidized care to those in need.

Animal welfare groups, breed rescues, or veterinary school funds
There are a few nonprofit groups that offer funding to those in need after submitting an application.

Help-A-Pet - A nonprofit organization which provides financial assistance for the medical care of pets whose owners are unable to afford the expense.
Labrador Life Line - Labrador Life Line, Inc. is a 501(c) (3) Not for Profit Organization created to help owners or rescuers of Labrador Retrievers who are in need of financial assistance.
The Travis Fund - Tufts University School of Veterinary Medicine. Created in memory of veterinarian Dr. Stanley O. Travis, the fund benefits injured and ill found animals, and owned animals undergoing treatment at Tufts' Foster Hospital for Small Animals or Hospital for Large Animals whose caring and responsible owners cannot afford the full cost of their veterinary care.
IMOM - In Memory of Magic - All volunteer 501(c)3 registered charity - Founded in 1998

Text: Copyright © Janet Tobiassen Crosby. All rights reserved.
taken from http://vetmedicine.about.com/library/weekly/aa060603b.htm

Buying a labrador retriever tips

2008-01-16T20:34:00.000-08:00

There are several points to consider before you go making a rush decision when you are thinking of purchasing a Labrador retriever, one of the first decisions is are you buying the puppy as a pet, for show or as a working dog for hunting? If you only want the dog as a companion then you won't be as limited but should still consider where you buy your puppy from.

If you want a puppy for showing in the future then you will have to take into account that it will have to meet certain standards which are laid out for the breed. If buying for show the puppy will usually cost more than one bought as a pet, if you are buying for sport such as hunting then its parents credentials will be essential too as they will pass traits onto to the puppy .

The gun dog

If you are going to be training or have your dog trained for use in hunting then you should make sure you get proof of the puppies background. You should ask to see the field records of the puppies parents and grand parents as these skills are what your puppy will have inherited.

The show dog

If you are thinking of showing the dog when it is old enough then you will need to make sure that the puppy has all the correct papers and registration documents that are needed for entering into a show. Another factor you will have to take into account is, do the puppies parents have credentials in showing, you should never take the breeders word for it, a reputable show breeder will have certificates and cups to back up what they say.

A reputable breeder will also point out which puppy he/she thinks will have what it takes to do well in shows though of course there is no guarantee of them winning. A show puppy will generally cost more than a puppy that while still being a wonderful pet wont have what it takes for winning in shows, so this should be taken into account.

The family pet

If you want nothing more than a reliable companion then your choices are more open, you won't have to rely on the puppies colour being perfect or if it doesn't quite meet the standards of a show dog. However you should still buy from a reputable breeder and ask plenty of questions about the puppies parents and the temperament of the puppy.

You should also get the relevant papers for the breed as most breeders of pedigree dogs will have the dogs registered whether they are for show or not. You will of course want to check that the puppies parents have been tested for hip dysplasia as this is a common problem in Labrador retrievers and one which is hereditary.

taken from http://www.retrieverguide.com/buying-labrador-retriever-tips.htm

How To Care for Labrador Retrievers

2008-01-16T20:32:00.000-08:00

By Samantha Harthy

Owning a Labrador Retriever is an amazing experience! They are sweet, loving, caring animals that need your love and care to become the best dog they can be. Here are some tips on how to care for your Lab:
Be sure to feed and water your dog. As with any breed of dog, Labs need food and water. Set up a feeding schedule for your dog as soon as she comes into your possession. Your Lab should have access to water 24 hours a day, 7 days a week, 365 days a year! Feeding can be done once or twice a day, depending on your preference. Choose a good, healthy brand of dog food and feed according to the instructions on the bag. When you give your dog his bowl of food, tell him to sit, and don't put the food on the floor until he has sat. Once he obeys the command, sit the bowl on the floor for him, make him look at you (away from the bowl of tasty food), then release him so he can eat his meal. This will teach him that you are in charge of feeding him, not merely obeying his request.
Give her a place to sleep that is her own. Many people don't enjoy sharing their bed with a large, hairy dog (these people are crazy... just kidding, of course); if you don't want your Lab to sleep with you, give her a bed that is her own. A large kennel with a blanket or dog bed should do the trick. As a puppy, train her that this is her bed, and stick to putting her in it and telling her to lay down when you are ready for her to go to bed. Many people think it is "mean" to put their dog into a pen or crate to sleep, especially when the dog cries because she wants to be with you. Though she may not like the idea of being away from you, it is really best for her to have her own place to sleep. This is true for any dog, as their ancestors used to sleep in a cave-like bed either on their own or with their pack. By providing your dog this "safe zone" in which to sleep, she knows where she can go to get some peace and quiet.
Take them to a puppy/dog training class. If you get your Lab when he is a puppy, or even if you get him when he is older and already trained, taking him to a class will teach him that you are his master, and allow him to interact with other dogs. If he knows his stuff, a refresher course never hurt anyone, and it will give the two of you some great bonding time. If your Lab is a new puppy and doesn't know "come" from "sit," this will help teach you what you need to do, and help your puppy learn how to actually obey. Bring plenty of treats, love and patience to each class!
Groom and bathe your Lab regularly. Though there isn't a lot of grooming involved for a Lab, the breed tends to shed quite a bit, and brushing and bathing them can help keep down the amount of hair that gathers on your floors. Clip their nails regularly as well (if you can hear them clicking on the floor, it is time to clip them!).
Make sure your dog gets plenty of exercise. Labs tend to become overweight if fed too much and exercised too little. The good news is that lab's love to run and swim. Though it may not be convenient for her to take a dip in a pond, she needs to get out and walk or run everyday. At least 30 minutes of exercise should be given to the dog each day. This is a great chance to spend time with your dog and get outside. Don't make it a chore -- make it fun for both of you!
Get your dog his shots and licenses on time. Not only are puppy shots, rabies shots and heartworm checks necessary to keep him healthy, they could save his life! Take him to the vet regularly, and be sure you get his licenses on time to keep both of you out of trouble!
Owning a Labrador Retriever means you can expect some general traits in your dog.
You now own a dog that loves the water. Labs were originally bred as a hunting dog for marshy/wet areas, and their job was to retrieve ducks and other waterfowl. If you live near water, his instinct tells him to run and jump right into it, so be prepared for that!
Labs are typically very gentle, loving dogs that get along great with children. My experience with labs tells me that if there is a little kid nearby, your lab is going to want to be right there, licking her face! If you have small children, make sure you let them around your lab and teach your dog not to jump on people, as he could accidentally knock down a child in his race to lick her face.
Prepare for the large amount of shedding typical of the breed. If your Lab is indoors, make a habit of brushing it regularly (at least every other day) and be prepared to vacuum a lot of dog hair! If you have allergies in the family, a Labrador Retriever may not be the breed for you.
Labs have a tendency (especially as a puppy) to chew on anything and everything in sight. If your puppy sees a shoe, she interprets it as a chew toy. This being said, keep lots of "real" chew toys accessible, train her early not to chew on chair legs, and keep anything off the floor that you wouldn't want chewed.

Labrador Retrievers make excellent companions for people of any age. If properly cared for, they can be the perfect addition to any family. I hope this helps and that you and your lab are very happy together for a very long time!

Some Pictures of Labrador Retriever's puppy

2007-10-25T19:54:00.000-07:00

Labrador Retriever History

2007-10-25T19:53:00.000-07:00

The Labrador Retriever, despite his name, did not come from Labrador, but from Newfoundland. The area was populated with small water dogs, who, when bred with Newfoundlands, produced a breed referred to as the St. John's Water Dog, a prototype for the Lab of today. Early in the 19th century, the Earl of Malmesbury reputedly saw one of the dogs of this type and had it imported; in 1830, the noted British sportsman Colonel Hawker referred to the Lab as "the best for any kind of shooting...generally black and no bigger than a Pointer, very fine in legs, with short, smooth hair...is extremely quick running, swimming, and fighting...and their sense of smell is hardly to be credited."

Initially, the dogs were not known as Labradors until the Duke of Malmesbury admitted that he "always called [his] Labrador dogs." However, the breed eventually died out in Newfoundland due to a heavy dog tax and quarantine law. Many Labs were interbred with other types of retrievers, but luckily, the breed prevailed and fanciers drew up a definitive standard. Accurate pedigrees of today's Labs go back as far as 1878. The Lab was recognized as a distinct breed by the English Kennel Club in 1903. The first registration of Labradors by the AKC was in 1917, and from the 1920s through the '30s, there was a great influx of British dogs that formed the backbone of the breed in this country.

Labrador Retriever

2007-10-25T19:32:00.000-07:00

General Appearance
The Labrador Retriever is a strongly built, medium-sized, short-coupled, dog possessing a sound, athletic, well-balanced conformation that enables it to function as a retrieving gun dog; the substance and soundness to hunt waterfowl or upland game for long hours under difficult conditions; the character and quality to win in the show ring; and the temperament to be a family companion. Physical features and mental characteristics should denote a dog bred to perform as an efficient Retriever of game with a stable temperament suitable for a variety of pursuits beyond the hunting environment.

The most distinguishing characteristics of the Labrador Retriever are its short, dense, weather resistant coat; an "otter" tail; a clean-cut head with broad back skull and moderate stop; powerful jaws; and its "kind," friendly eyes, expressing character, intelligence and good temperament.

Above all, a Labrador Retriever must be well balanced, enabling it to move in the show ring or work in the field with little or no effort. The typical Labrador possesses style and quality without over refinement, and substance without lumber or cloddiness. The Labrador is bred primarily as a working gun dog; structure and soundness are of great importance.

Size, Proportion and Substance
Size--The height at the withers for a dog is 22½ to 24½ inches; for a bitch is 21½ to 23½ inches. Any variance greater than ½ inch above or below these heights is a disqualification. Approximate weight of dogs and bitches in working condition: dogs 65 to 80 pounds; bitches 55 to 70 pounds.

The minimum height ranges set forth in the paragraph above shall not apply to dogs or bitches under twelve months of age.

Proportion--Short-coupled; length from the point of the shoulder to the point of the rump is equal to or slightly longer than the distance from the withers to the ground. Distance from the elbow to the ground should be equal to one half of the height at the withers. The brisket should extend to the elbows, but not perceptibly deeper. The body must be of sufficient length to permit a straight, free and efficient stride; but the dog should never appear low and long or tall and leggy in outline. Substance--Substance and bone proportionate to the overall dog. Light, "weedy" individuals are definitely incorrect; equally objectionable are cloddy lumbering specimens. Labrador Retrievers shall be shown in working condition well-muscled and without excess fat.

Head
Skull--The skull should be wide; well developed but without exaggeration. The skull and foreface should be on parallel planes and of approximately equal length. There should be a moderate stop--the brow slightly pronounced so that the skull is not absolutely in a straight line with the nose. The brow ridges aid in defining the stop. The head should be clean-cut and free from fleshy cheeks; the bony structure of the skull chiseled beneath the eye with no prominence in the cheek. The skull may show some median line; the occipital bone is not conspicuous in mature dogs. Lips should not be squared off or pendulous, but fall away in a curve toward the throat. A wedge-shape head, or a head long and narrow in muzzle and back skull is incorrect as are massive, cheeky heads. The jaws are powerful and free from snippiness-- the muzzle neither long and narrow nor short and stubby. Nose-- The nose should be wide and the nostrils well-developed. The nose should be black on black or yellow dogs, and brown on chocolates. Nose color fading to a lighter shade is not a fault. A thoroughly pink nose or one lacking in any pigment is a disqualification. Teeth--The teeth should be strong and regular with a scissors bite; the lower teeth just behind, but touching the inner side of the upper incisors. A level bite is acceptable, but not desirable. Undershot, overshot, or misaligned teeth are serious faults. Full dentition is preferred. Missing molars or pre-molars are serious faults. Ears--The ears should hang moderately close to the head, set rather far back, and somewhat low on the skull; slightly above eye level. Ears should not be large and heavy, but in proportion with the skull and reach to the inside of the eye when pulled forward. Eyes--Kind, friendly eyes imparting good temperament, intelligence and alertness are a hallmark of the breed. They should be of medium size, set well apart, and neither protruding nor deep set. Eye color should be brown in black and yellow Labradors, and brown or hazel in chocolates. Black, or yellow eyes give a harsh expression and are undesirable. Small eyes, set close together or round prominent eyes are not typical of the breed. Eye rims are black in black and yellow Labradors; and brown in chocolates. Eye rims without pigmentation is a disqualification.

Neck, Topline and Body
Neck--The neck should be of proper length to allow the dog to retrieve game easily. It should be muscular and free from throatiness. The neck should rise strongly from the shoulders with a moderate arch. A short, thick neck or a "ewe" neck is incorrect. Topline--The back is strong and the topline is level from the withers to the croup when standing or moving. However, the loin should show evidence of flexibility for athletic endeavor. Body--The Labrador should be short-coupled, with good spring of ribs tapering to a moderately wide chest. The Labrador should not be narrow chested; giving the appearance of hollowness between the front legs, nor should it have a wide spreading, bulldog-like front. Correct chest conformation will result in tapering between the front legs that allows unrestricted forelimb movement. Chest breadth that is either too wide or too narrow for efficient movement and stamina is incorrect. Slab-sided individuals are not typical of the breed; equally objectionable are rotund or barrel chested specimens. The underline is almost straight, with little or no tuck-up in mature animals. Loins should be short, wide and strong; extending to well developed, powerful hindquarters. When viewed from the side, the Labrador Retriever shows a well-developed, but not exaggerated forechest. Tail--The tail is a distinguishing feature of the breed. It should be very thick at the base, gradually tapering toward the tip, of medium length, and extending no longer than to the hock. The tail should be free from feathering and clothed thickly all around with the Labrador's short, dense coat, thus having that peculiar rounded appearance that has been described as the "otter" tail. The tail should follow the topline in repose or when in motion. It may be carried gaily, but should not curl over the back. Extremely short tails or long thin tails are serious faults. The tail completes the balance of the Labrador by giving it a flowing line from the top of the head to the tip of the tail. Docking or otherwise altering the length or natural carriage of the tail is a disqualification.

Forequarters
Forequarters should be muscular, well coordinated and balanced with the hindquarters. Shoulders--The shoulders are well laid-back, long and sloping, forming an angle with the upper arm of approximately 90 degrees that permits the dog to move his forelegs in an easy manner with strong forward reach. Ideally, the length of the shoulder blade should equal the length of the upper arm. Straight shoulder blades, short upper arms or heavily muscled or loaded shoulders, all restricting free movement, are incorrect. Front Legs--When viewed from the front, the legs should be straight with good strong bone. Too much bone is as undesirable as too little bone, and short legged, heavy boned individuals are not typical of the breed. Viewed from the side, the elbows should be directly under the withers, and the front legs should be perpendicular to the ground and well under the body. The elbows should be close to the ribs without looseness. Tied-in elbows or being "out at the elbows" interfere with free movement and are serious faults. Pasterns should be strong and short and should slope slightly from the perpendicular line of the leg. Feet are strong and compact, with well-arched toes and well-developed pads. Dew claws may be removed. Splayed feet, hare feet, knuckling over, or feet turning in or out are serious faults.

Hindquarters
The Labrador's hindquarters are broad, muscular and well-developed from the hip to the hock with well-turned stifles and strong short hocks. Viewed from the rear, the hind legs are straight and parallel. Viewed from the side, the angulation of the rear legs is in balance with the front. The hind legs are strongly boned, muscled with moderate angulation at the stifle, and powerful, clearly defined thighs. The stifle is strong and there is no slippage of the patellae while in motion or when standing. The hock joints are strong, well let down and do not slip or hyper-extend while in motion or when standing. Angulation of both stifle and hock joint is such as to achieve the optimal balance of drive and traction. When standing the rear toes are only slightly behind the point of the rump. Over angulation produces a sloping topline not typical of the breed. Feet are strong and compact, with well-arched toes and well-developed pads. Cow-hocks, spread hocks, sickle hocks and over-angulation are serious structural defects and are to be faulted.

Coat
The coat is a distinctive feature of the Labrador Retriever. It should be short, straight and very dense, giving a fairly hard feeling to the hand. The Labrador should have a soft, weather-resistant undercoat that provides protection from water, cold and all types of ground cover. A slight wave down the back is permissible. Woolly coats, soft silky coats, and sparse slick coats are not typical of the breed, and should be severely penalized.

Color
The Labrador Retriever coat colors are black, yellow and chocolate. Any other color or a combination of colors is a disqualification. A small white spot on the chest is permissible, but not desirable. White hairs from aging or scarring are not to be misinterpreted as brindling. Black--Blacks are all black. A black with brindle markings or a black with tan markings is a disqualification. Yellow--Yellows may range in color from fox-red to light cream, with variations in shading on the ears, back, and underparts of the dog. Chocolate--Chocolates can vary in shade from light to dark chocolate. Chocolate with brindle or tan markings is a disqualification.

Movement
Movement of the Labrador Retriever should be free and effortless. When watching a dog move toward oneself, there should be no sign of elbows out. Rather, the elbows should be held neatly to the body with the legs not too close together. Moving straight forward without pacing or weaving, the legs should form straight lines, with all parts moving in the same plane. Upon viewing the dog from the rear, one should have the impression that the hind legs move as nearly as possible in a parallel line with the front legs. The hocks should do their full share of the work, flexing well, giving the appearance of power and strength. When viewed from the side, the shoulders should move freely and effortlessly, and the foreleg should reach forward close to the ground with extension. A short, choppy movement or high knee action indicates a straight shoulder; paddling indicates long, weak pasterns; and a short, stilted rear gait indicates a straight rear assembly; all are serious faults. Movement faults interfering with performance including weaving; side-winding; crossing over; high knee action; paddling; and short, choppy movement, should be severely penalized.

Temperament
True Labrador Retriever temperament is as much a hallmark of the breed as the "otter" tail. The ideal disposition is one of a kindly, outgoing, tractable nature; eager to please and non-aggressive towards man or animal. The Labrador has much that appeals to people; his gentle ways, intelligence and adaptability make him an ideal dog. Aggressiveness towards humans or other animals, or any evidence of shyness in an adult should be severely penalized.

from: http://www.akc.org/breeds/labrador_retriever/